Optimum Lawn Care

 

One my neighbors asked me about lawn care the other day and after the dialogue, he mentioned that I should write a column on the topic.  So, here we go…

Probably the biggest error in lawn care that we commonly see is length of cut as most lawn mowing operators prefer a traditional shorter cut.  The common verbal reasoning is that a shorter lawn will transpire less water, grow at a slower pace, and thus we’ll have to mow less frequently while saving soil moisture.  While this may be partially true, we must also realize that this strategy over the long term is more difficult to manage. 

 

Here are some facts against a short lawn height.  The top growth of our Kentucky bluegrass lawn is directly related to the depth of the root system.  It is estimated that bluegrass root depth will only be twice as deep as the top growth.  So, if we’re consistently cutting the lawn at a 1.5” to 2” height, the root depth is only around 3-4” -- which makes the lawn have less soil water available by volume, less access to soil nutrition, and more susceptible to weed competition/infestation as most weeds root deeper (i.e. common dandelion) – all explaining the slower grass growth.  Shorter grass height also leads to less protection against soil evaporation, adding to the drought stress potential.  And, stressed plants do not have the health to defend against disease, insects, or other general stresses. 

Here are my tips for a healthy lawn:

·        Cut lawn at a height of 3+ inches tall even under non-irrigated situations.  If added drought protection is desired, return clippings to the lawn for added mulch to further reduce soil evaporation

·        If/when irrigating your lawn, use an infrequent heavy watering schedule -- typically 1” to 1.5” or more per watering; one to two water applications a week depending on heat, humidity, and wind.  Heavier watering amounts will help stimulate a deeper root system, and the water (plus fertilizer) will be more fully utilized by the deeper roots

·        Lawn clippings after a herbicide and/or fertilizer application do contain residues.  It’s best to return these clippings to the lawn with the first two cuttings after every application -  garden production can be severely impacted by herbicide residues, and some ornamental species can be sensitive to over fertilization as well as herbicides -- be careful if/when utilizing clippings as mulch in these scenarios

·        Typically, a healthy lawn will only need one to two herbicide applications per season (spring and fall) to keep weeds under control.  It may take more herbicide in the short-term as you manage for a healthier lawn

·        Fertilizer amounts and timings of applications will depend on how intense the lawn is managed.  It will take more fertilizer to maintain a healthy, properly irrigated, weed free, 3” plus height of lawn grass

·        Even in best case scenario, the lawn root system is only 6-8” deep and thus frequent smaller fertilizer applications will be more efficiently utilized, and minimize the potential for nutrient leaching below the root zone

·        If you only have time for one fertilizer application for the year, I’d recommend the late summer to early autumn time frame.  This will provide the lawn grass full resources to finish the year strong before heading into dormancy.  Also, enough fertility should remain for a favorable start in the spring to help minimize temperature stresses while providing good vigor for ground cover while reducing weed opportunities.